Geothermal monster lies there in the endless field of snow, hissing and bubbling.
Bjarnarflag is the geothermal area near lake Myvatn and the village of Reykjahlio whilst Kroflustoo is a geothermal power station, both in the Krafla area (Krafla is a volcano).
According to my guide book farmers did attempt to grow potatoes in Bjarnarflag but these emerged from the ground already boiled. Yummy, a massive field of jacket potatoes!
In Bjarnarflag there is a geothermal field with steam coming from the ground and a hot lake (too hot to bathe), pipelines and a factory building. We visited this are when it was already becoming dark; the steam comes out from vertical pipes stuck in the ground, very un-romantic landscape and I found very interesting how, compared to the gorgeous and wild landscapes around Myvatn, in this area the human intervention is so visible.
Even more strangely interesting is to find a ugly factory building in Kröflustöò. This is the geothermal plant, a huge factory and some other smaller buildings around it. Such a fine example of non place!! I can read when it was build and why in my guide book, but apart from that it is all very anonymous and a bit scary, like it has landed there from another planet.
The wind was very strong at this point, and the vapour filled the air, making it very difficult to see what was around.
But it has made me reflect on my work here at NES in Skagastrond.
I applied with the idea of finding a community of fishermen in a small village (that's what wikipedia says!) and i found hardly any fishermen, there are no old men with fishing nets smoking a pipe.
In Skagastrond I have found it difficult to photograph people (but this will be my next step!) as there are not may people around, the harbour is incredibly quiet at all time. In fact, everywhere in Iceland seems to be very quiet by contrast to London.
My work up to now has concentrated on photographing this isolation and the human traces left in the landscape: I have photographed found objects, houses and sheds spread in the field. I walk kilometres before finding the next subject for my photographs. No one is around.
The houses and sheds lie in fields of hay and snow, like many Mary Star lost at sea.
My steps trace the geography of the territory which is connected to the human geography: a dual relationship in which the landscape/territory shapes human life whilst humans affect and leave traces of their presence in the territory.
Another interesting element for me is that i cannot place Skagastrond in time and space: all houses seem relatively new (maybe the oldest are 50-60 years old) and all look very similar. Whilst in London or in any other metropoli i can trace how the city has developed, in terms of old historical buildings, older houses and new blocks of flats, old areas and new part of the city (like the olympic area which is being build near my Leyton home), in Skagastrong I cannot do that. Maybe the Icelandic are not so keen in preservation and keeping old buildings.
In such a small village, the church seems brand new, white and clean. If you go to any small village through mainland Europe the church has to be at least a couple of centuries old (old churces are compulsory!). The lack of people, the overwhelming space available and the impossibility in placing it in time make Skagastrond such a fascinating alien place to me!
